Los Dolores Festivities: Emotion, Culture and Tradition
September is the month of traditions in Lanzarote, and the fiestas of the Virgen de los Dolores, the best showcase.
1. History. Learn about the miracle that stopped the rivers of lava.
The volcanic landscape that surrounds you is a permanent reminder of the eruptions that buried villages and fields, especially those that took place between 1730 and 1736 in Timanfaya. With this visual testimony so present, it seems logical that the patron saint of the island is the virgin who performed the miracle of stopping the rivers of lava. The story goes that the inhabitants of Tinajo, terrified by the advancing magma, asked the Virgin de los Dolores for help, promising to erect a chapel in her honour. A man risked his life to hammer in a cross at the edge of the lava and then, at that very spot, the eruption stopped, leaving a white spot in the middle of the desolation. That’s why Mancha Blanca (White Spot) is the name given to the village that houses the chapel and where the festivities in honour of the Virgen de los Volcanes are celebrated.
2. Gastronomy. Sample the fruit of the volcanic earth.
To blend in with the festive atmosphere, try the comforting snacks provided by Lanzarote’s mineral soil, nourished by fire and wind. The products of this dry land are, by their very nature, unique in the world, so the best thing to do is to stand at one of the ventorrillos (stands) on the esplanade of Los Dolores and order one of these classics:gofio escaldado, sweet potatoes or papas arrugadas with their assortment of mojo sauces, truchas (sweet pasties), mantecados de canela, figs and prickly pairs, sandwiches featuring fish fresh from the Atlantic, artisan goat cheeses, garbanzas, lentils from Lanzarote or local pork. Pair them with the Denomination of Origin wines and you’ll be all set to start your route.
3. Pilgrimage. Experience the rite of coexistence.
Before joining the romería (pilgrimage) which this year takes place on Saturday, 9th September, you must make sure that you’re suitably dressed. It’s very easy to get hold of the traditional skirt, trousers or waistcoat because at this time, the shops dress their shop windows Canary Islander style to supply those who make the pilgrimage to Los Dolores. The pilgrimage is multitudinous, welcoming and one of the most immersive experiences in terms of local essence. Roads and highways are filled with groups of friends and families sharing experiences and enyesque (snacks) with whoever wants to join them. We suggest starting early in the morning from the Casa-Museo del Campesino, an iconic work by César Manrique that pays homage to the island’s countryside and its people.
4. Handicrafts. Learn ancestral techniques.
Anyone who wants to immerse themselves in Lanzarote’s traditions has an unmissable date to put in their diary: the 34th Feria Insular de Artesanía (craft fair) takes place from 8th – 15th September. This year, it brings together ninety artisans from all over the Canary Islands and features Chile as its guest country. Awaken your senses before the marvels on display, with ancestral techniques that were already in use by the island’s original aboriginal peoples. The local handicrafts include natural dyes, delicate embroidery and pottery made of Lanzarote clay. A visit to the fair is an intercultural ritual. Take the opportunity to ask the craftsmen and craftswomen about the wood from which the timples are made, the legend of the figures of Los Novios del Mojón, the delicacy and constancy involved in rosette lacework, basketry and palm work… Little by little you’ll absorb the island character, which is so well represented in the field of handicrafts.
5. Folklore. Enjoy colourful rhythms.
Lanzarote’s folklore is a treasure preserved generation after generation. Rare is the family on the island that doesn’t have a member who plays the timple or dances in a group. For this reason, traditional music is one of the star elements of the festival, with shows such as the Encuentro Folclórico Nanino Díaz Cutillas, which this year will be held on Friday, 8th September. Let yourself be carried away by the isas, folías and malagueñas, by the rhythms of the chácaras, drums and guitars, by the swirling of the dancers’ skirts, sashes and ribbons. Find yourself a good spot among the audience that fills the square of Mancha Blanca at this folkloric gathering that embodies the identity of the people of Lanzarote like no other.
6. Tinajo. Take a walk through volcanic history.
After enjoying the fiestas and gaining some understanding of the idiosyncrasies of Lanzarote, you’re sure to want to know more about its history, and Tinajo offers the perfect opportunity. The municipality is the guardian of a large part of the island’s impressive volcanic landscapes. in his book Lanzarote, Agustín de la Hoz says: “In a strange and eerie landscape, among greens, ochres and blacks, stands the hamlet of Tinguatón, imprisoned by no more and no less than five craters, namely: Tinache, Caldera Quemada, Uga, La Caldereta y Guiguan “. If you want to broaden your knowledge, you can visit the Mancha Blanca Visitor and Interpretation Centre before visiting Timanfaya National Park. And if hiking is more your thing, you can wander safely along the paths of Volcán del Cuervo, Montaña Colorada or Caldera Blanca. You’ll leave impressed by the seas of ash and the impossible volcanic shapes – you’ll go home different, transformed, renewed – a little bit more Lanzarote.
